Around Nhulunbuy

8 July 2017

Despite its isolation, Nhulunbuy is the 4th largest town in the Northern Territory (after Darwin, Alice Springs, and Katherine). Currently its population is about 3,500 allthough it was around 4,500 until 2014 when Rio Tinto decided to mothball the bauxite refinery in the town.

Nhulunbuy owes its existance to the bauxite mine about 20 km from the town. The bauxite is extracted and conveyed to Nulunbuy harbour via 20 km of conveyor. Previously, the bauxuite was processed in the Rio Tinto refinery but it is now sent unprocessed to either China or New Zealand.

Nhulenbuy harbour area with Rio Tinto refinery in the background

Because of yesterday's flight delay, activities planned for yesterday had to be included today, so an 8 am start was required. After a brief tour of the town and harbour, we headed off to Wirrwawuy Beach for a Welcome to Country ceremony by members of the local Yolngu people (of the Galpu clan). This involved a series of short dances depicting features of their culture and environment. The ceremony was led by elder Djalu Gurruwi, who is either 85 or 89 (depending on how he feels when you ask him). Djalu is a master of the Yidaki (the local name for the didjeridu) and, together with other members of his clan, he was recently featured in a major exhibition at the South Australian Museum.

After the welcome ceremony had concluded, we were all invitated to join the clan in several dances. All I can say is that my two left feet lived up to their reputation...

Welcome to Country ceremony

Djalu Gurruwi playing the Yidaki

Our next stop was the small town of Yirrkala and the Buku-Larrnggay Mulka Art Centre. The centre represents artists from North-east Arnhem Land and 80% of the sales are returned to the artists with the remaining 20% being used for operating costs of the centre. A major feature of the gallery is the display of two large panels which, originally, had been mounted in the local Methodist Church. These had been painted by the local indigenous people and depict the relationship the Yolgnu had with their land. Apparently the original pastor had no issue with the panels being displayed in the church but later church authorities deemed them too pagan to remain. They were taken down, stored poorly and suffered significant damage. Eventually they were rediscovered and, after extensive restoration, now take pride of place in the Art Centre. That these important works were treated so shamefully by the Methodist Church does that organisation little credit. If church authorities wonder why people are turning away from organised religion in droves, they might consider that lack of respect for other cultures and beliefs is part of the reason.

We were asked not to photograph the panels but we were allowed to photograph reproductions from a catalog that was produced some years ago. So here they are in low resolution, which certainly doesn't do them justice.

Yirrkala church panels

Next stop - a healing ceremony by women of the same Galpu clan who we met earlier in the day. This invoved the boiling of leaves collected from the local bush. The boiling released oils that are believed to have healing properties when applied to the skin. Marg and I both underwent treatment on our legs - the oily residue on the skin quickly dissipated after the treatment, leaving the skin much better conditioned than with any commercial skin-care product costing $$$. We were told not to wash the skin for 24 hours to allow the healing properties of the treatment to be fully realised - I fully intended to comply with that advice but circumstances intervened....

Healing ceremony

Our final stop of the day was Maccassan Beach, so named as it was one of the numerous locations along the northern cost where trading between the Yolngu and visitors from Sulawesi occurred. Maccassan Beach (or Garanhan as it's known locally) is about 30 km south of Nulunbuy - it's a pleasant enough stop and would have been more enjoyable had I not tripped on a piece of vine across the path and took a tumble. Damage was minimal, fortunately, but the grazes on my leg needed cleaning back at our motel, meaning I had to wash off the previously applied healing oils. More importantly, of course, my camera survived the fall with no ill effect!

Parked at Maccassan Beach

Tomorrow, we head off across Arnhem Land - destination Murwangi Safari Camp on the edge of the Arafura Swamp near Ramingining. We've been warned - it's going to be a bumpy ride!